|
Selecting the right tree for your yard and finding
a good spot for planting is critical. You need to consider
the size of the tree when it is full grown to make sure there
is enough room for its roots and branches to reach full size
without growing into utilities or other plants. Also, you
must consider the soil and moisture requirements of the tree
as well as the site where you are planting the tree. If a
tree doesn't like a lot of moisture, don't plant it in a low
lying area near a drain site. There are many native and adapted
specimens that are suitable for our Central Texas rain levels
and will not require special fertilizing to supplement the
nutrients available in the soil.
It is best to plant trees during the cooler
months of October through March. We get more moisture in these
months and the cool moist soil will help promote root growth
which helps the tree become established before the drier hot
months of summer. Even though the top of the tree may be dormant,
roots grow when soil temperatures are above 50 degrees. If
you plant a tree in the spring, you should provide about an
inch of water each week during the summer months. Understory
trees (i.e. shade to part-shade) may be planted at any time,
provided watering is adequate.
The steps identified below help you maximize
your tree's ability to establish a good root system and minimizes
transplanting stress. It may take several years for your tree
to become completely established with a full root system but
once it is established, it will require little care.
There are numerous opinions on the correct
size and shape of a hole but sometimes Central Texas gardeners
have to settle for whatever our shovel can get loose. The
ideal hole is shaped like an inverted cone with the bottom
of the hole flat and equal to the size of the root ball diameter
and the top of the hole 3-4 times wider than the root ball
diameter. The large shallow soil area will be where the tree's
new tiny roots grow out into the soil in the first few weeks.
Since most of a tree's roots grow horizontally just below
the soil surface this will also benefit the tree long term.
Make sure the bottom of the root ball rests on solid undisturbed
soil. When the hole has been refilled, the soil at the base
of the tree should be at the same level on the trunk as it
was in the container. Make sure the sides of the hole are
rough to help prevent the roots from circling the hole and
to help force new roots to grow out into the surrounding soil.
To carefully remove a tree from the container,
simply tilt the pot onto its side, tap it lightly, and gently
slide out the tree. If you pull a tree out by its trunk, you
can damage small roots which will make it harder for the tree
to survive the shock of transplanting. If the container grown
trees is root bound, gently pull out any roots that are encircling
the root ball with your fingers to allow the roots to be free.
This procedure will help the roots grow into the surrounding
soil. Moisture will get into the root ball better if the roots
are not as dense and there is more soil in the root ball to
retain the moisture.
If you have a balled or burlapped tree, place
the tree in the hole. After the tree is positioned correctly,
pull the material away from the top and side of the root ball
but just let the material rest on the bottom of the hole.
After moving the protective material, don't make any adjustments
to the root ball.
Make sure the tree is straight in the hole before
backfilling. Backfill the hole with only the original soil.
If you add fertilizer, compost or other material to the original
soil, the tree may be slow to develop a good widespread root
system since the roots will resist growing outside of the
hole you have dug. Settle the soil with water. By letting
the water settle the soil naturally, you will leave space
in the soil for air and water. After you have watered, add
additional soil to refill the cavity around the root ball.
Remove any grass or weeds within a 3 to
6' diameter circle around the tree. This will prevent turf
grass roots from competing with your tree roots for moisture
and nutrients. Cover the area with 2" to 4" of mulch
(native cedar mulch works great) to help retain moisture and
prevent weed growth. Taper the mulch to no more than 1"
deep next to the trunk. Feed the tree annually with 1"
of compost around the the "drip" area of the canopy.
If you have planted your tree correctly, a berm is not necessary
because the existing native soil and mulch will handle water
efficiently.
If you have deer in your area, they may eat
the leaves of a tree until it grows out of their reach. But
even unpalatable leaves won't deter antler rubbing damage.
All trees will become deer resistant after growth exceeds
browsing height of 5' and a diameter greater than 6".
Only physical protection can reduce or prevent deer antler
rub damage to trees and shrubs. Tree shelters or wire cages
erected around a tree can exclude deer and prevent them from
causing damage.
Watering is highly dependent on weather
conditions, the type of soil and moisture preferences of the
tree. The following are general guidelines, but never allow
the root zone to dry completely or to remain soaked for extended
periods of time. If the soil under your mulch is warm and
dry, then you need to water.
· In the absence of rain, slow-soak the
tree once a week for the first month after planting
· October-March: In the absence of rain, slow-soak
the tree once a month for one hour
· April-September: In the absence of rain, slow-soak
the tree once a week for one hour
A slow deep watering will encourage your
tree not to become dependent on watering and establishes deeper
roots to withstand strong winds.
|
